JohnEdwa

“A bigot is someone intolerant of others’ differing ideas, races, genders, religions, politics, etc.”

I am very intolerant of the differing ideas of nazis, the far right, the westboro baptist church etc, so from their point of view, I’m a bigot.

They are simply pointing out that “racist” and “bigoted” are just as ambiguous in the exact same way as the “evil”, “harmful”, “good”, “negligent”, “bad”, “unethical” etc he mentions for the other licenses.

“bigot noun a person who is obstinately or unreasonably attached to a belief, opinion, or faction, especially one who is prejudiced against or antagonistic towards a person or people on the basis of their membership of a particular group.”

If being a bigot is good/bad/evil/harmful/unethical or not depends entirely on who is calling you one, and what you or society thinks of them. If you think that just because someone is a MAGA/Nazi/Tesla owner that they are bad, congratulations, you are a bigot.

Ye. I have all Ikea smart stuff, by default everything is running a local mesh network with physical remotes and that light switch backup.

You don’t even need to connect any of it to the net, buying a hub to get app & google home/alexa/etc control is entirely optional with the exception of a few sensors, like the moisture/water leak one. And even then, the app & hub work on local wifi with no internet anyway.

It’s getting a remaster, but also maybe a remake at some point.

Though it doesn’t need a remake nearly as badly as SS did, the remaster could get it pretty close already.

Hope they keep those maps updated, the assist on our BMW constantly gets the speed limits wrong. There’s a section that was changed from 50km/h to 70km/h years ago and it still gets confused because the signs don’t match the map it’s using, flip flopping between the two multiple times.
But at least it’s just an option, it doesn’t restrict or automatically do anything so it’s not a huge issue.

Honey being one of them, it did start as a simple addon that gathered and automatically tried coupon codes for you. It did exactly what people expected it to do.

But obviously once you start getting hundreds of millions in venture capital funds, and eventually sell yourself to Paypal for 4 billion, it’s clear that isn’t all you are doing any more.

I did assume in the end that it stole all my shopping data, and probably bunch of browsing history in general, which is why I had it installed in a separate browser, but I didn’t expect it to be doing affiliate hacking and blackmailing partner deals for the coupons.

Anywhere from 35C to 75C depending on what you are making. 50C is just about right for most vegetables and mushrooms.

From experience printing a bunch of different planters with varying settings and printers, without post-processing/sealing the answer is “not reliably”. You can increase your chances by using many perimeters and surface layers, high heat, and thicc extrusions, but you are still just stacking swiss cheese slices on top of each other hoping the holes don’t line up.

With days submerged, even the tiniest of defects means water can and will seep in.

It will make it look more fluid. It will feel like it’s running at a lower framerate, and at the framerates BG3 runs at on the Deck, around 25fps or 40ms per frame, the increase would be quite noticeable.

NFS Most Wanted, the original, is fantastic, though it requires manual installation as it’s not on Steam.

Sadly the redux modpack version is just a bit too heavy as it includes a bunch of shaders and stuff you can’t disable. It runs, but you get maybe two hours. Vanilla barely taxes the deck.

But only hackers and cheaters use Linux, didn’t you know???

In our efforts to combat cheating in Apex, we’ve identified Linux OS as being a path for a variety of impactful exploits and cheats. As a result, we’ve decided to block Linux OS access to the game. While this will impact a small number of Apex players, we believe the decision will meaningfully reduce instances of cheating in our game.

It’s also one of the only two requirements for the “Verified” label. Specifically, “the game must ship with a default configuration on Deck that results in a playable framerate.” That’s literally the only thing about performance in the entire process, the rest is all UI and usability stuff.

Default to low and get a playable framerate - whatever that means - and you can get your game verified.

Link only streamed.

This is a Steam TV.

CE mark is often self-approved, it is neither an actual certification nor is there a process or money required. It’s simply a promise from the manufacturer that the product “conforms with European health, safety, and environmental protection standards.”

It either does that and they can put a CE mark on it, or it doesn’t and that product is never going to be available in the EU as-is.

Graphics are graphics, that’s what limits most of the games and devices. Optimize something to run on the Switch 2, and that should work on the Deck too.
That benchmark used to be the PS4, but most developers have dropped support for last gen hardware.

"People are 3d printing guns, should we require background checks on the required barrels/trigger mechanisms/ammo/magazines/rails etc?

No! We should require checks on the universal machine that can among a billion other things manufacture the plastic parts!"

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Few things:
The Deck can’t support 65W charging either. It prefers, and maxes out, at a 45W charge, specifically 15V@3A. It can charge using 12/9/5V standards as well, but obviously does so slower.
5V charging is only recommended while the deck is off/sleeping as there is a batch with bad charging chips that can overheat and burn out otherwise (as it has to boost the 5V up to 7.4V and above for the battery)

Slower chargers still work even while gaming - they just extend the time it takes to drain.

If a powebank advertises mAh, it’s using the nominal voltage of a single lithium cell, 3.6 or 3.7V. If they use Wh (and aren’t blatant scams), then that’s the only thing that matters. What you get out is always less, due to the conversion losses.

LCD has a 40Wh battery, OLED has 50Wh. Get at least 20% more if you truly want a full charge.

The deck has power passthrough, once it’s full it uses the charger only. Sometimes this means it “refuses” to charge to 100% and instead stops just shy, that’s kinda normal.

You can check what the value actually would read as if you unplug the thermistor (as that’s what it’s a protection against), and as long as you aren’t near that reducing MINTEMP should be perfectly fine. For example, mine reports something like -50C.

For my smol hands, the Skull & co back button extensions.