This is inappropriate on so many levels:
If it’s only overhangs then you may want to look at increasing the time between layers or increasing the part fan speed on overhangs.
This way there’s time for the layer before to solidify enough before adding more heat and melted plastic above it.
May not be it but it does have a kind of “overheated” look to it.
No need to feel like an idiot, I’ve done it too. Even looked up how to do some obscure thing only to find a link I’ve read before and comes out I have a bookmark for it from a year or so ago.
As for switching settings across objects I agree. I use these things when dialing in one setting across a range such as flow rate. Never for an entire print, though, since a failed print component is going to be dragged across others, etc.
Or the change in temp, flow, retraction, etc may cause strings, or blobs, etc. to affect the others when it’s printing the layers. Unless you’re doing one object at a time which presumes they’re small enough, etc. And even then it failing could mean what remains of the entire object may be dragged across hitting others. It’s just not worth the hassle.
It does show them thinking about processes which is a good mindset to have though.
Experience is a good teacher in this hobby.
Not per item “Profiles” but a lot of slicers let you do overrides.
For example you can override with per object settings in OrcaSlicer (and I presume Bambu). In Cura you can add settings that even apply to a box region (such as increasing infill in a certain weak part of a print or using adaptive layer height just as the top of some Conical shape)
Start with PLA since PETG can be finicky with moisture.
Garages are nice but try to keep drafts to a minimum. PLA is more forgiving there too.
Have fun tinkering and figuring it out. There’s just some skills you’ll acquire as you go. Slicer experience giving you an understanding of orientation for strength and/or to minimize the need for supports.
PLA is also cheap enough to just figure it out. You’ll have bad prints, regardless but you’ll also make some cool stuff too.
PETG has to be dry. I keep mine drying in my filament dryer when I’m printing it and then take it out and keep it sealed with dessicant when I’m not.
Stuff loved to absorb moisture like crazy and is super finicky when it has any moisture at all.
Fourth rule… painters tape as bed surface will save your PEI sheets and holds PETG really well.
Or G10/Garolite
Sounds like they’re running their own LLM instance on googles cloud infrastructure vs using something like OpenAI via API.
As web dev parlance it makes sense but for marketing it is definitely confusing and they should do better.