This movie is like the king of freeze frame references. If it’s mentioned anywhere in Japanese mythology, even if in a form borrowed from other cultures, it’s virtually guaranteed that it appears somewhere, especially in the yōkai parade the raccoons put on. I think the Ghibli animators had a lot of fun cramming in absolutely everything they could think of.

A metric ton, anyway, and provided whatever you want is water.

The obvious answer: Use your replicator to replicate more replicators.

The correct answer: The Young Lady’s Illustrated Primer.

The clever dick corollary: 1m³ is actually quite a large volume, and ain’t no rule says you can only replicate one object at a time. If whatever luxury item or commodity you want is small in volume, which it probably is, don’t forget you can replicate a whole bunch of it within a meter cube.

Well, okay, they’re the mainly public facing ones. Gemini, GPT, Copilot, whatever the hell Musk’s one is, Grok? All of that bullshit is just LLM’s, the ones nobody asked for and nobody wants. That’s what everyone is complaining about.

This is so, but LLM’s are the only most visible public facing ones and they’re the dumbshit technology that every company on Earth is now trying to shoehorn into every product. They’re what people see, interact with, and get pissed off by.

Learning neural nets are good for various specific types of pattern recognition tasks, but trying to be an electronic butler who answers your questions ain’t one of them and it never will be.

I’ve never actually successfully made anything shiny with that type of “chrome” spray paint. But they can give it a shot.

You’re right that most car badges are plastic anyway, covered with a thin veneer of that flaky chrome effect stuff. I have no idea if it’s actually chrome or just some kind of shiny plastic, a hot-dip process, some kind of PVD or sputtering, or what.

This is one of those jobs that seems tailor made for 3D printing.

You may not find the font you need exactly, but you can probably doodle something up that’ll be close enough to get the point across, especially if you can get a good scan or image of the letters you have got, and copy them (and their style).

3D print your parts (in ASA/ABS or a fairly heat resistant material is probably a good idea) and use copper electroplating spray on it and then nickel plate the shit out of it to make it silver and shiny. Nickel plating is easy to do at home (unlike chrome plating) and pretty tough to screw up.

HDMI goes in video. Sure, HDMI “can” carry audio. Nobody thinks of it as an audio cable. Component cables rarely carry audio. They go in video cables as well, regardless of whether or not they’ve got the extra two RCA’s glommed on.

USB-A to Micro B go in the USB cable box. The adapters box doesn’t have any cables in it, it’s all gender benders and pin converters and so forth.

The box of wall warts is in fact labeled “DC Power” but these days is realistically just mostly full of wall warts. Vanishingly few devices use a DC power cable that is independent of a brick or wall wart but is also not USB of some description. If a brick has an associated AC cable it gets placed in a baggie (almost everything I have is bagged to prevent tangles and aid sorting/labeling), especially since there are so many damn variants of them. Are you going to try to use it without its cable? Of course not.

Do yours however you want. My system, such as it is, started as one box of cables and got progressively speciated as I accumulated too many cables to fit in one box anymore, and thus one category had to be split out.

The next split will probably be separating USB cables that contain a Type C plug on them from ones that don’t, as the lingering threat of being buried under an avalanche of A-to-Mini-B cables is ever present.

I have, uh, nine. That are sorted. Probably others elsewhere.

Audio, video, USB, AC power cables, wall warts, internal data cables, non-USB data cables, game console specific cables, and adapters/dongles/splitters. (That’s not getting into the game controllers and accessories, expansion cards, drives, box o’ fans, and ye gods forbid, the milk crates full of consoles. And the one full of plug’n’play TV games.)

Whatever it is you need, I got it.

You only have one bin of cables?

Just a black screen when I tried it.

You can’t even boot with two 32x units installed, at least based on previous experience the last time I tried. So alas, this 256x assembly won’t work.

Locale, and pedantry.

Similarly, Salvation Army is a whackadoo pseudochristian religious cult masquerading publicly as a thrift store. They’re only about one degree removed from the Mormon church in terms of sequestering, abuse (sexual and otherwise), and manipulation of their members and those in their care. And of course also vehemently espouse the entire conservative fuckhead smorgasboard of homophobic, transphobic, sexist, anti-union views. They claim to do “good works” and superficially may even occasionally accomplish this, but it’s always couched in their hateful religious bullshit which really rather undermines the point.

Yes, Chick-Fil-A is also a famously fundamentalist wingnut organization. Being for conversation therapy is only the start of it.

As is Hobby Lobby – The nation’s only retail chain whose owners were busted for attempting to illegally smuggle stolen religious artifacts from the middle East for display in their personal bible museum!

I originally migrated here to talk about motorcycles.

The other thing kind of happened by accident.

Mine came with one plated (with nickel, I believe) brass one and an entire spare hotend with a hardened steel one installed. They advise you to use the steel one for filled filaments (carbon fiber, glass, glow, etc.) and also high temperature materials.

I have since replaced my stock nozzle with an aftermarket polycrystalline diamond one, and it’s been completely trouble free.

I don’t know about the Q1 Pro but I have an X-Max 3 and it has been bombproof for me so far. It absolutely can print PA-CF if you want to.

Mine can also print ABS about as easily as most machines print PLA, which I find fairly astounding.

It’s even worse than that. Not only is it a solved problem, but Tesla had it solved (or closer to solved, anyway) and then intentionally regressed on the technology as a cost cutting measure. All the while making a limp-wristed attempt to spin the removal of key sensor hardware – first the radar and later the ultrasonic proximity sensors – as a “safety” initiative.

There isn’t a shovel anywhere in the world big enough for that pile of bullshit.

That style should be clutch fit, i.e. the knob just pulls off. It may be gunked on there with 40 years of accumulated crud, though. So this is likely to require a hard yank or possibly some prying. Good news: The cover plate is already broken, so prying on it can’t possibly meaningfully break it further.

It’s also not outside the realm of possibility that her handyman broke it, and his solution for “fixing” it was to just glue the knob onto its stem before anybody noticed.

If it breaks, no big deal. Breaking it is also a valid way to get it off, and an entire replacement dimmer is like $9 at the hardware store. You can also get replacement knobs for a couple of bucks, and they’re generally broadly interchangeable (although these days, without that groovy aluminum accent disk in the middle).

Here are the pics inline for everyone’s benefit.