Depends on the printer, the large Vorons use high wattage ac heaters and are self enclosed, I have fans on mine that force air under the bed, can easily push into the 60s in the summer. My prusa in its enclosure maybe does mid-high 40s, but I have no issues with warping, did all my original voron prints on it and still use it for smaller/quick prints, good adhesion helps a lot, for small stuff I don’t always preheat for abs. I pretty much run Buildtak surfaces on my printers, it’s replaceable if it’s damaged + adheres extremely well so I can get away with being a bit more carefree.

Haven’t personally needed additional heating other than maybe a space heater in the garage to stop things from kicking out on a low temp when not in use, did consider modding one into the enclosure but I’m personally thinking about going for insulation first.

I’d be cautious about a long term extension cord outside, I’m not an Electrician or an EE so I won’t give you advice on that, be nervous I’d clip it mowing the lawn at the minimum, mains spooks me so I give it an overabundance of caution.

Enclosures are a must IMO, but I do print mostly abs and nylon. I have mine in the garage in a separate airspace with recirc filters like the Nevermore, have the large stealthmax on my voron, I don’t stay in the room when I print, but it definitely reduces the residuals.

If you have to print inside, vent outside, benefit of using an enclosure is that you can set this up pretty easily. Venting the entire room outside is also a good option. I do not recommend using anything but the “safer” filaments until you’re certain the airspace is separate from your home, I’m on the cautious side.

All filaments produce fumes, you still don’t want to be breathing pla or petg fumes on the regular, I don’t mess with resin, you want VOC cartridges and a respirator for those AFAIK, I have some from previous jobs and they’re pretty affordable but it sucks to work with those on in the summer (and I’d need to shave…). There’s variation between manufactures of the same type of plastic, I’ve got some abs that has minimal to no scent, have another I’ve used that stinks.

It’s a learning experience. Is your nozzle torqued to spec? Only time I’ve seen something like this is when the heatbreak/nozzle weren’t set correctly on a v6 hotend, and even then it just oozed down, didn’t consume the entire heatsink. I kept that in my box of learning lol, swapped everything to hotends that are secured so they don’t spin freely after that, was petg so it degraded in the heat and was such a pain in the ass to remove from set screws, was ok writing it off.

Bed adhesion is often caused by surface cleanliness in my experience, some setting will influence it but you’re going to chase problems if your surface has residual oils, some surfaces are more sensitive to it but even the oils in your fingerprints can cause a loss of adhesion. Light dish soap and water is the general recommendation for a degreaser but be aware that this will damage some surfaces, I’ve got some that explicitly want only 99% IPA and another that only wants a clean microfibre cloth.

Drafts can cause an issue too, seen some abs fail becauae I didn’t have the enclosure latched properly and the doors worked their way open with vibrations from printing, I keep mine in my garage and live in Canada, enclosures are a must for me.

It’s night and day different isn’t it? That 90hz display makes a larger difference than I expected as well, my partner’s oled deck is way smoother looking on top of having nicer looking visuals (I’m a sucker for HDR). LCD is still an incredible device, especially if you get it at a discount like I did mine ($475 CAD all in is amazing value), but if you can afford an oled one, it’s totally worth it.

They have oled refurbs now, which I’d totally do having had mine apart to do a clicky button mod, it’s really easy to get into and easy to service.