Yikes. Gonna have to work with this material a bunch to learn how to use it.
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First rule of PETG-club is “dry your filament”, second rule of PETG-club is “dry your filament”… Thrid rule? Nope, it’s “store your filament dry”
Jokes aside, other things you could look at:
- nozzle, how worn is it?
- calibration tests: did you do a temp tower? Calibration cube? Retraction test?
- The vertical surface doesn’t necessarily have that appearance as a result of wet filament. In my experience, wet PETG will result in more random variations than that. It looks too regular IMHO, is everything that should be tightened actually tightened?
- have you calibrated the extruder steps?
I would bet on retraction here. Dial that in and 90% of the stringing goes away.
Fourth rule… painters tape as bed surface will save your PEI sheets and holds PETG really well.
Or G10/Garolite
Using G10 can recommend if you scratch it up you can just use the other side and if you have a metal probe you can add aluminium tape to the side you aren’t using and get full functionality.
Honestly you are off to a pretty good start. As everyone will tell you, you need to keep this stuff really dry. If that still doesn’t work, try different settings. If that doesn’t work, try a different brand. Unlike pla that is pretty forgiving on manufacturing tolerances, I’ve seen big differences in quality with PETG. In my hands, Id consider your kitty a perfectly acceptable print. Butane torch the hairs and you’ll have a perfectly clean model
Edit: also play with avoid crossing perimeters settings.
@mooklepticon I print almost exclusively with PETG and what I have found that works for me is to dry the filament, even if coming right out of the package. With some filaments, decreasing the nozzle temperature also helps.
Drying helped. temp tower is next!
